the story of Mix Dal Khichri

Food scarcity was one  of the greatest challenges  India faced for a long time. Recurrent famines, wars, growing population, inadequate infrastructure were some of the reasons behind widespread starvation and malnutrition that persisted at that time. Food not only was treasured and worshipped but was deeply valued  because it was scarce. There are stories shared by families I know of how meals were unapologetically simple and minimal. Wheat, rice, sugar were exceptional commodities whereas millets, jaggery was the usual. The government was required to import wheat to meet the demand, the red hard wheat that arrived was frowned upon because the Rotis turned red and chewy. Queuing up for ration was a regular affair yet stocks weren’t guaranteed at the end of the wait. Despite its great value, there was always enough food for unexpected guests, vagrants and the fauna of the neighbourhoods. Food was never thrown away as doing so meant disrespecting Anna Devta. Hence, leftovers were camouflaged  and brilliantly turned into new preparations. The past few generations have never encountered any grave challenges that might result in food scarcity, perhaps the reason they have taken all of it for granted!!

Amidst all the narratives I have had with family and friends who share their food stories, one that has distinctly stayed with me is by Manisha, a very dear friend. It was a story that talked about ways parents managed to put a meal together despite all adversities. Recently, I had the pleasure of sitting down with her mother Sushila Auntie and have this memorable and precious conversation. “Food was scarce and so was money. At the end of a tiring day what mattered the most was providing enough food to the family. Roti-subzi with chaash for lunch and khichri-kadhi for dinner was a norm. No fancy stuff. To be able to manage even such simple meals was considered an achievement. Each family in the neighbourhood shared similar challenges hence, we all rallied for each other. We stayed very near to the bustling Danapeeth, a wholesale grain market of Ahmedabad. It was from here that entire Ahmedabad and its neighbouring regions bought grains. As the narrow and busy lanes leading to Danapeeth were too difficult to navigate during the day the big trucks reached after it was dark, the offloading of the grain sacks carried on through the night. The men were in charge of off-loading those stout and stuffed gunny bags. As their iron hooks pierced the jute sacks, the grains would quickly begin to escape through those holes while the men carried 100-kilo bags on their strong backs. At the end of it all, there would be a variety of lentils, pulses and other grains strewn all around. Once the sacks were unloaded and the trucks moved out, womenfolk would sweep and gather the strewn grains. They were filled in sacks for them to sieve, winnow and clean the following morning. And so it was every night. Since it was impossible to segregate the mixed dals, they were sold off at a nominal price, a price we could afford. A spicy mixed dal with rotla/millet flatbread or a mix dal khichri mostly with broken wheat was a regular menu. Wheat because rice was expensive while wheat was available at ration stores! We had to be wise and think smart. Having a meal together mattered, nothing else did! Interestingly, it was this frugal ritual and the need to feed nutritious food and affordable food that birthed our trevti (mix of three dals) and panchkuti (mix of five dals).”

Food is precious, I hope we all learn to value, appreciate simple and honest meals.

The simple recipe of mixed dal khichri as shared by Sushila Auntie…