Over the years of researching the vast and varied regional cuisines of Gujarat, the foods that have charmed me the most originate from agrarian communities. Honest, vibrant, bold, and unpretentious like the communities that birthed them, their striking flavors make an instant and lasting impression. Instilled with flavors that bring an instant cheer on a slow day, these simple foods can fall into the fast-food’ category, albeit they are cooked from scratch.
The kathiyawari agrarian cuisine is one such. Not long ago everyone in the family shared a hand on the farm, and the demanding farm duties left little time for kitchen duties. As a result, the meals remain minimal both in terms of the number of items cooked and ingredients used, most of the time cooked using only a few pantry staples. Rotla or Bhakhri with Doodh, Khichri or thuli with Doodh are meals they rely on. A brimming bowl of Doodh for dinner is a must, as it aids digestion. Milk and its by-products are easily available for these families as most have cattle wealth. I remember my Bhabhi mentioning her mother serving Dhokla with doodh for dinner, a combination that will only find a few takers in current times.
The Vaghareli Chaash/tempered buttermilk gets a mention in many articles on Gujarati cuisine. And one might wonder if it was a beverage or an accompaniment to a meal. Gujarat serves masala Chaash as a beverage and is a significant part of our summer meals when it is had to cool the body temperature. The masala added is roughly pounded roasted jeera (for its cooling properties) and salt.
The Vaghareli Chaash has two versions. The first has oil tempered with jeera, curry patta, and chopped green chilies poured over the buttermilk and served as a beverage, and the second is where buttermilk is poured over chili-garlic tempered hot oil. The buttermilk isn’t heated in both of the versions. While the former is served as a beverage in urban homes and upscale restaurants serving Gujarati thali meals, the latter has been a kathiyawari staple. It is part of the dinner and accompanies rotla, bhakhri or khichri.
No, this is not a Kadhi, so please do not confuse it with rustic Kadhi or tikkhari (tempered broken yogurt). Buttermilk is something the rural communities can easily access because, as a norm, it is generously shared for free; the cattle-rearing families do not shy away from giving it to non-cattle-owning peasants. In the absence of milk, cultured buttermilk works. Even better.
Growing up eating Kathiyawari meals, I naturally leaned towards the buoyant flavors of the Kathiyawari Vaghareli Chaash my Bhabhiji shares here. As with all simple Kathiyawari foods, this one makes you reach out for second and third helping.
Try it.
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